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Micro Needling is a workout for your skin

Micro needling has become an essential treatment in the advanced skin care clinic. It has become increasingly accessible as well due to the increased number of devices at reduced costs.

So why should you be offering micro needling at your salon?

Let’s just say there is no reason not to. It is one of the most effective and safest treatments around.
There is plenty of information available online, mostly pertaining to the collagen induction component of its therapeutic benefit, however this is only one of the advantages of micro needling.

If you are serious about micro needling, consider investing in an online course by Dr Lance Setterfield, or at least get hold of one of his books.
Luckily you do not have to buy the most expensive machine on the market. I have tried very expensive models that worked like a dream, very cheap models that worked exactly like that, and mid-price models that were a nightmare.

You want a smooth treatment which is mostly obtainable if your needle speed is sufficient. You want a good quality needle (sterile, medical grade stainless steel with smooth sharp tip) that fits properly, and that stays on. Needles should always be for once off use only.

So how to you promote this treatment to your clients? Pretty much in the same manner you would sell a personal training session. Needling is a workout for your skin. Think increased blood flow, increased nutrients, increased oxygen reaching individual skin cells. To top that, there is a release of growth factors which stimulate new tissue formation whilst old damaged tissues are broken down. An increase in collagen and other water holding macro molecules has a firming and strengthening effect on the skin at dermal level. Skin will appear fresher and younger looking, and it will remain that way for longer with continued “exercise.”
So how deep do you go? And is maximum depth always better or desired?
This is where the ability to perform a good skin diagnosis is essential. Most experienced well qualified therapists should be able do this at a glance with a bit of practice. Knowing the indication, you are treating and understanding at what skin level you have to work to impact on that specific indication is paramount. This, together with consideration of risk factors will determine the ideal depth.
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be a risk since you are inducing an inflammatory responce. This can be minimized through reduced needle depth and decreased treatment frequencies.
Over-treating or treating too frequently can compromise the skin and have a negative effect on collgen formation and skin health. Generally, I offer needling sessions at between 6 and 12-week intervals, depending on healing ability and risk factors for the specific client.
Another very important consideration is use of product. Not all products are safe or good to be used in combination with micro needling penetrating the dermal level. Consider not only actives, but also additives such as perfumes and preservatives which may contribute to inflammation and degradation over a period of time. Endocrine safety is also to be considered due to increased systemic absorption. Stick to “clean cosmetic” brands and products and serums specifically indicated for dermal penetration. Just because a product is good on your stratum corneum, does not mean it is going to be beneficial once it is in your dermis. Some ingredients are meant to stay on the surface. For the same reason, choose your after-care products carefully and avoid SPF and make up for 30 to 60 minutes after needling. This also brings us to the controversy of numbing creams.
Some feel no numbing is best to eliminate the chances of the potentially skin harming ingredients which may be present in numbing creams. Personally however, I prefer a midway by steering away from the stronger agents and sticking to the over the counter topicals with light consistency that can easily be washed off prior needling.

In addition to the firming, dermal strengthening effect of needling it is also a keratinocyte “normalizer”. The upper epidermis and stratum corneum is far from dead if we consider the abundance of enzymatic activities happening at this level. Superficial needling assists with these processes helping to create a strong, even toned, healthy barrier. Often this is all that is required to restore the skin to a beautiful healthy state.

So keep exercising those skins for long lasting youthfulness.

Yours in creating beautiful skin
Claudeen Krause
Founder of skingen mobile
www.skingen.co.za